Amarnath Yatra

The thought of performing Amarnath Yatra was sparked during the end of March 2023 when one of my seniors brought up this question of “The registrations for Amarnath Yatra will start from the 1st of April. Anyone interested to join me?”. After our initial conversations, I broached the topic with my brother and cousin both of whom readily agreed and we started our research on the topic. After significant research on the net and scouring the pages of the official site of the shrine board, https://www.jksasb.nic.in, we listed down the steps to be followed to obtain the permit and also the preparations that we need to undertake. We also checked in our circles to see if anyone has performed this Yatra so that we can take some useful tips from them. There were quite a few POVs based on the individual experiences and we took all of that as inputs. We also had to finalise the date on which we planned to have the Darshan of Baba Amarnath, based on which our other plans had to be formulated, with a buffer of 2 to 3 days that came in handy. We planned for our darshan on the 6th of July and our date of travel as 4th July and return date as 12th July.

The rest of the write-up is based on our own, first-hand experience of the complete Yatra.

There are a few compulsory tasks/documents that we need to have ready before applying for the Yatra permit. I have listed them below in the order of priority:

1. Compulsory health certificate - this form should be downloaded, filled and endorsed at the listed/approved hospitals in your city/town. You can download the form at this link: https://www.jksasb.nic.in/Yatra2023/CHC2023/CHC%20Updated%202023.pdf

2. Please make sure you mention any of the pre-existing conditions and don’t hide any health condition. Permits are not denied just because one has any pre-existing medical condition. It just helps the doctor who will sign the health certificate to prescribe any specific medicines that you need to take along

3. In case you are from Bengaluru, there are 4 hospitals that are approved to get this health certificate endorsed. In the south, the Government Hospital (erstwhile Sanjay Gandhi Hospital in Tilak Nagar) provides this. There are a few tests that one needs to get done at a diagnostic lab to save the time in running around in this hospital. These tests are: CBC of the blood, ECG and Chest X-ray. You also need to attach your latest passport size photo on this form.

4. Once you submit this form at the specified counter along with your health reports and it is approved by the designated doctor, you will be redirected to another counter where a clerk will stamp your application with the approval. Store this hardcopy original carefully, as you will need it later as well. Please note that there is no additional fee other than the OPD registration charges and the consulting doctor's fees (in Jayanagar General Hospital, the registration charges are Rs 5 and consulting doctor's fee is Rs.13) at these hospitals. Don't pay any additional money or bribe as this is mandated by the Government of India. And please DO NOT hide any medical condition as it can become problematic for yourself during the Yatra

5. Next, visit the URL: https://jksasb.nic.in/onlineservices/agreeme.html and follow the process listed there. Fill the application form online - have your Aadhar card handy - enter the OTP to verify the Aadhar, pay the application fees online, attach a soft copy of the signed and stamped Compulsory Health Certificate. After paying the fees online, you will receive a notification to download the permit in PDF format post approval. Prior to this, you need to decide which route you will take for the Yatra. There is one from Baltal base camp and one from Pahalgam. More details on these in the later sections.

6. If you are going as a group, one person will be designated as the leader of the group and all the other applications will be attached to her/him. As a rule, do not venture on this Yatra alone. Go in a group of a minimum of 3 members or more.

 

Once you are done with this phase of getting your Yatra Permit, you can start the other preparations that are more to do with individual preparations such as physical fitness, mental toughness, endurance training etc. Based on my experience, it would be good if you can include some of these as part of your daily routine at least two months prior to commencing your Yatra.

Walking: Make sure you do brisk walking of 7 to 10 Kms every day. The duration should be for at least an hour and a half without stopping or resting anywhere. It may seem difficult initially (especially if you are not used to walking) but you need to persevere and get to that target. BTW, walking 7 to 10 Km in Bengaluru daily will not automatically make you ready for the high altitude (10,000 ft +) walk, but a combination of this walk and other exercises will help you not to get tired as quickly as someone not doing it.

Breathing exercises: Practise pranayama to increase your lung capacity as it will definitely help you at higher altitudes

Quit smoking: Even if you are an occasional smoker, it is better to quit immediately not just from the POV of the Yatra but also from an overall health perspective. At least for the Yatra, you MUST refrain from smoking

Meditation: Not mandatory, but it will help you in the eventuality that you are stuck in one of the base camps (like us) due to inclement weather. It will help to retain inner peace and deal with the situation calmly.

Warm clothing and shoes: Make sure you take sufficient warm clothes such as thermal vest, pant, track pant, pullovers, waterproof jerkins, woollen caps, mufflers, ear muffs and gloves at it can be very cold at some of the base camps such as Panchtarni, Sheshnag and Chandanwari. Make sure you buy a waterproof, ankle high shoes for the Yatra. Even if you decide not to trek the entire distance, you still need these kind of shoes to make your way around in the Camps. You can search on Amazon for such shoes and make your choice accordingly. You also need to have a backpack that you can take along on the Yatra. Make sure the backpack is either waterproof or has a waterproof cover.

Basic medicine kit: In addition to any regular medication you take, make sure you have stock of some basic medicines such paracetamol, antacids, medication for stomach upsets, pain balms, sunscreen, cold cream and lip balms. Please note that sunscreen lotion is a must as even the slightest exposure to the bright sun at that altitude can cause sunburn within minutes if you are not protected.

Other must haves: Mobile charger, preferably a power bank, Sunglasses (yes, they are a must especially if there is bright sunlight and snow on the mountains), mixed dry fruits, wet tissues, toiletry kit.

You need to do the below important activity as soon as you start your journey on the Yatra.

You need to collect your RFID card as soon as you reach Srinagar or any of the base camps. For a hassle free and smooth experience, make sure you get your permit online itself as it will be in the latest format. Avoid getting your permit from the banks as they still have the old format and it was not being accepted in the RFID counters. The holders of the permits from the banks were asked to do KYC once again and it can be a major hassle especially if you are not fluent enough in Hindi.  Once you have the RFID card, make sure you wear it always. This RFID is linked to your permit and contains all your information.

The below options are for those who opt to trek:

From Baltal base camp:

Be advised that this is a difficult route. But if you start early enough - say 4:30 AM - you can complete the Darshan of Baba Amarnath and return the same day, assuming there are no weather challenges. The total distance from Baltal base camp to the Holy Cave is about 14 Kms one way.

From Panchtarni base camp:

This is a much shorter route, not as difficult as Baltal but it comes with its own challenges. You can reach Panchtarni from either Baltal or Pahalgam, depending on what you have opted in your Permit.

From Pahalgam base camp:

This is a much longer route, almost 32 kms one way. From Pahalgam, you need to trek to Sheshnag via Chandanwari (12 Kms) and halt there overnight; Sheshnag to Panchtarni (14 Kms) and halt there overnight; final leg from Panchtarni to the Holy Cave (6 Kms). This is a 3 day trek, assuming no weather challenges and suspension of the Yatra.

Based on the above decision, you need to plan your travel accordingly. There are multiple ways to reach each of the above base camps.

1. Fly to Srinagar and then go by road to either Baltal or Pahalgam

2. Go by train to Jammu and then by road to either Baltal or Pahalgam

For those who opt to take the helicopter route:

Helicopter to Panchtarni:

This is a popular option among several Yatris who don’t mind spending additional money and want to avoid the arduous route. The helicopter booking is quite tricky and comes with its own set of surprises. Typically, the helicopter bookings are expected to start from the last week of May. Make sure you monitor the shrine board site https://jksasb.nic.in/onlineservices/agreeme.html to get the latest status on the helicopter bookings. As soon as the bookings open up, you can make your booking online and complete the payment process. If you are opting for the helicopter travel for both onward and return journeys, it is advisable to book both in advance.

On the designated day of your travel, you need to reach the helipad area at least 1 hour before your allotted time slot. Slots are generally from 6 to 9 AM, 9AM to 12 PM, 12 PM to 3 PM and 3 PM to 6 PM. The existing cost of a one way ticket to Panchtarni is Rs.2800 from Baltal and Rs.4200 from Pahalgam.

One can opt to stay at the Base Camp at Baltal or stay at a hotel in Sonmarg. Similarly, at Pahalgam as well. Please note that the facilities in the Base Camp are very basic and one needs to be mentally prepared to stay under such conditions. Do not expect any sort of luxury as they are priced at Rs.600 to 650 per person per night. Toilet facilities are at a community level and hygiene there is quite low. Hot water is provided @ Rs. 50 per bucket if anyone wishes to take bath. However those decisions are individual.

The trek from Baltal, Panchtarni and Pahalgam are not easy and quite challenging, even to those accustomed to trekking. The high altitude adds to the challenge. Have a small block of camphor ready in a cloth/plastic cover and smell it at regular intervals to help increase the intake of oxygen. The path is common for trekkers, ponies and the doli bearers making it quite challenging. During our visit, the path was quite muddy, slushy and at places covered with snow as well making it quite tough even for the horses. There are several places where you can find loose rocks that make the path even more precarious.

One can opt for the horses (mules, actually) for the entire journey. The rates are published by the government and one can hire them directly from those counters. If you opt for non government ones, you need to negotiate quite heavily to get the best price. For example, if a mule owner quotes Rs. 3000 for a return journey from Panchtarni, negotiate for a one way journey for Rs.1200 - 1300. Return journey to Panchtarni is quite cheap and you can get it for as less as Rs300 or 500 max. Doli rates range from Rs.18,000 to Rs.22,000 as 4 people carry the Yatri. There is a point about a kilometre away from the Holy Cave where one has to get down from the mule and either trek the remaining distance or take a doli. The charges for doli from that point to the Holy Cave and back is Rs.1000 for a return trip. There is some advantage in taking that doli as the doli bearers will also help with a fast track darshan.

What to expect:

1. Ever changing weather - here the weather can change almost every 5 minutes

2. Sudden onset of rain combined with severe cold

3. Yatra can be suspended at any time in case of inclement weather

4. Stay in the tents for extended durations of time

5. Alter your original plans based on weather conditions

6. Sudden, unannounced changes to helicopter slots allotted originally

What not to expect:

1. Any sort of luxury in the accommodation

2. Predictability of weather

One thing to note is that none of the Yatris will go hungry. There are several langars (known as Bhandaras) in all the base camps where hot, wholesome, simple and Satvik food is served to all the Yatris at no cost. The volunteers at the Bhandaras serve this food with a smile and a genuine sense of Sewa. The food at the Bhandaras are considered as the Prasad of Baba Amarnath and the Yatris are expected not to waste any food. The Bhandaras start serving tea, biscuits and rusks from 5:45 AM, followed by breakfast at around 9 AM, lunch after 12:30 PM, tea at around 5 PM and dinner by about 8:30 PM. Besides this, there are mini markets selling a wide range of things from water bottles, soft drinks, packed snacks, biscuits, raincoats, warm clothings, soaps, etc.

I am also publishing a 7 part write up on Facebook with the details of not just the Amarnath Yatra, but also the other places we visited. 

I hope this blog has been helpful to anyone planning for the Holy Amarnath Yatra.  if you still have any questions, please drop me a message at ramesh1069@gmail.com and I will try to answer.  

I wish you all the very best and a safe Amarnath Yatra.